MRketNY Spring/Summer 2011

PART 1

VICOMTE A.

Well it seems like classic, all American looks will be all the rage in Europe for Spring 2011.  While it may be a trend in Europe, for some Americans it’s the standard uniform; khakis, polos, oxford shirts, loafers and blazers. In steps VICOMTE A., a collection of classic American sportswear designed in Paris and of course with a European twist. Usually “all American” is not my thing but when I saw all the vibrant colors in the Vicomte A. booth at the MrketNY show I had to see what was going on.  

Vicomte means French aristocracy and was designed for the man (woman or child) who aspires to be a Vicomte but for the moment is working his way up the corporate ladder. A stands for Arthur de Soultrait, the owner of the firm. It is a full men’s, women’s, kidswear collection from outerwear to accessories.  Each season in addition to their basic collection they will add additional items based on trends the designers have chosen.  For Spring 2011 design decided to name their trends after places the elite and chic European would travel to or do. 

The first theme is Trophée Bailli de Suffren.  It is nautical inspired and based on a 580 mile, 12 day offshore race from St Tropez to Malta reserved exclusively for classic yachts.  Sign me up Captain!!!  Usually my job on a sailboat is to lie around; make sure we have dinner plans for our next port of call; enough wine to compliment our fresh catch of the day lunch; and ensure that everyone is having a great time.  But with a wardrobe from Vicomte A. I might be tempted to hoist a gibb or two.

The second theme is pretty simple, Indian Safari; a collection of creamy, soft and washed neutrals with a small shot of spicy colors.  

The third and final theme is VA Famous Beach Club.  VA standing for Vicomte Arthur and of course you know what a beach club is.

VICOMTE A. has been in business for ten seasons now and this is their fourth season in North American multibrand stores (Nordstroms, Atrium (NY), Enson’s (CT).  They operate their own branded stores all over the world so if you happen to be in St. Tropez, Barcelona or Santa Margherita Ligure, Italy among other international getaway spots this summer, drop by.  If you plan on staying local, check out the branded stores in South Hampton, Nantucket or Palm Beach.

VICOMTE A. is distributed in the U.S. by Caulfeild Apparel Group in Toronto, Canada. www.caulfeild.com…1-800-268-7939…or check out their website at: www.vicomte-a.com


TROMPÉE BAILLI DE SUFFREN

Latch jacket in red

Nylon Latch Jacket

Yachting and Marine Polos

Cotton DB Jacket

INDIAN SAFARI

SPICY KNITWEAR 

Saharan Cotton Trench Coat

Under collar treatments

VA Beach Club

Beach Club Polos

BASICS 

Cotton Hunting Jacket

Suede Moccasin

Cotton trousers

Brightly colored knits and wovens

AGE OF WISDOM

What do you do when your boss comes to you and says, oh, by the way…I’ve sold the company and you now have a new boss.  And instead of doing sales, you’re going to be the designer?   Well if you’re Allison Basile, you go within, find your inner designer and start designing.  And if the force is with you, you’d be in your 4th season and have 3x more business than last Fall. And so was born AGE OF WISDOM, a contemporary men’s casual shirt line.  Unlike you ladies, most of us men are a simple breed.  We’re not changing pant hems each season (even though Tom Brown has done his best to change that line of reasoning)…or worrying will flats or heels be in next season. Or what is the new hot color that we must have for our halter…sweetheart neck… plunging neckline or back, blouse; or will our skirts be short and puffy or long and slinky.  Yes, we’ll be in solids, plaids, checks and occasionally a print shirt, or trouser.  Hopefully something flat front with a tapered leg and not too much below our navel.  Some of us will brave trousers or shorts in plaids, checks and stripes but most of us will be in solid basics like navy, white, grey, khaki, black and maybe brown.  And then there are the chosen few who will brave a red, green, light blue, yellow or patterned trouser. 

Plaid shirts have been the “it” item for a few seasons now so we need to move on.  But how you ask.  Thank you AGE OF WISDOM. While everyone is trying new washes on denim you’ve taken our plaids and added new washes and dying effects.  Now I personally would not have tried this five days before the MarktNY Show, but thank your lucky sell-throughs Allison did.  Cloud wash, potassium wash, snake wash, stone wash with enzyme wash, textured crinkle and crinkle on prints just to name a few. All treatments that can’t be done overseas (You go girl!! Keepin it in the USA). Couple these washes with antique buttons or snaps and  trims out of France and you have an understandable, sellable and updated collection of men’s sportshirts. Something simple that most men can grasp even if they don’t know or want to know the latest trends but also something new for those of us who want to stay a bit ahead of the pack.

On knit tees and thermals there is a two week turnaround. They are also made in the USA and have different washing treatments.

AGE OF WISDOM is mainly sold on the west coast but will hopefully be migrating east very soon.  Right now you can find them at Nordstroms, Sam's (Livingston,NJ) and Peacock (E. Village, NYC).

AGE OF WISDOM/QUANTUM CONCEPT INC…323-584-7958…  email:allsnbs@aol.com

Crinkled effects

Crinkled effects on prints and plaids

Stone wash over plaid

Cloud wash over plaid

Snake wash on front panels

Novelty trims from Paris

Pearl snaps

WISECRACKER

Lately I’ve been really attracted by luggage, especially carryon and every day bags like computer and gym.  Unlike our feminine counterparts, we don’t need a clutch, tote, Birken, oversized, midsized etc…but having options for computer, overnighters and maybe even gym can be justified. For checked luggage I could care less as long as it doesn’t pop open when the gorillas that handle the luggage take over.  Really. I remember being so proud of my brand new Hartmann luggage when I first got it.  I watched as its unscratched ballistic nylon body was put on the conveyer belt and I went to board my flight.  Upon arrival a piece of luggage came out resembling something that could have been Hartmann luggage but that piece of $%@# could not be mine!  As it passed the third time I checked the tag and lo and behold it was.  Needless to say I’ve learned my lesson about buying expensive luggage that will be checked.  Now on the other hand, carryon and laptop bags can remain unscathed if you’re careful and you can still deplane looking chic and elegant. I’ve got a big one, 17" and finding something just right to carry it has proven difficult. If it were 15”/13” or a netbook it would be so much easier. Most computer bags are too small and I don’t want to look like I’m going away for the evening just to go to the library.  Combine that with me being picky and you can see my dilemma.  That’s why I’ve started looking at totes as an alternative to the traditional computer. 

Pet carrier

When I saw WISECRACKER, I knew I had found a collection of travel and business bags made with me in mind.  Elegant without being pretentious; constructed with attention to details like colorful yarndyed linings  and using the finest Italian materials like micro twill nylon, calf leather and polished nickel hardware.  I love the tote (aptly named "Nomad" which is what my family calls me)  because it can be carried by hand or with a shoulder strap and my Mac slides in comfortably with room for any extra items I may need for the day or night. Actually it was the pet carrier which first caught my attention.  If it only came in Labrador size with wheels!!

Jim and his partner David have been together for 21, yes twen-ty-one years.  Both have a fashion background and done stints at Saks, Bullocks Wilshire and I. Magnin.  They are the geniuses behind Wisecracker LLC which includes Wisecracker Design, a commercial, residential and product development firm (www.wisecrackerdesign.com) and Wisecracker luggage.  Besides good design they also believe in giving back and have founded Wisecracker’s Entrepreneurs Supporting Entrepreneurs Foundation which helps fund another organization called Kiva. Kiva.org micro lends to small retail entrepreneurs and artisans which “enable people to raise themselves and their families out of poverty with small targeted loans”.  This means, those of you who can afford to shop, can now shop guilt free because a portion of each purchase goes to the fund.  So by shopping, you actually could be helping an artisan in Central or South America as well as a small retailer in Africa.  Good goes around!!

www.wisecrackerluggage.com ...1-800-419-2984
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wisecracker-Luggage/138114162881109

Women's collection

Women's Christina V

Folding Valet

Inside Folding Valet

Constellation Speed Pack and Cabine Bag

Concourse Suitcase and Tarmac Laptop

Nomad tote

Nomad zips close for safety and privacy

Jayatu with clamshell zip opening

Jatayu in leather and Flight bag

Shopping in Rome...EMPRESA

La gente (people) always ask me why I have this overwhelming desire to live in Rome again when moda (fashion) is in Milan. I tell them, "I didn't choose Rome, Rome chose me." I know Milan is where most fashion is headquartered and if I find a job there, believe me, I am on the next plane. But when I pass the Colosseo, Vittoriano, Piazza del Popolo or even cross the Tiber river, something in my heart just fills with joy and astonishment. It's like when I lived in Florence and I would see the Ponte Vecchio or David in Piazza della Signoria I would always think, OMG, I live here!!.And usually whatever problem or worry I had would vanish, even if only for a moment.

 And there is fashion in Rome. Maybe most designers have headquarters in Milan, but there are a few Romani who are still based in La Citta Eterna (the Eternal City). One of my favorite negozi (stores) is EMPRESA. There are actually five of them, three for men and two for women. My Empresa is located on Via dei Giubbonari 25/26 between Largo di Torre Argentina and Campo dei Fiori. That also happens to be the store where Gabriele, one of the five propretari (owners) spends most of his time. For me Empresa is one of those few stores where I feel as if design had me in mind when they there were designing, making me their Muse. I can find something for almost every and any occasion from an aperitivo doppo lavoro (cocktails after work) to an evening at Teatro Argentina. Everytime I went into the store it was busy. On one particular day a customer was there for three hours trying on every article the salesman brought him. This was one of Empresa's regular customers who comes in from another paese (country) to restock his wardrobe. Then there was the Spanish husband and wife duo with two kids in tow shuttling back and forth between the men's and women's store across la strada (street).

 I guess Empresa could almost be called a "lifestyle" store since they carry everything a man could want, except underwear. Outerwear, wovens, knits, accessories, bottoms and even un tasco (helmut) for your motorino (Vespa). Every year, Empresa comes up with something special to add to it's assortment. This season it happened to be watches which complemented the looks of the season. On some occasions it has been a houseware item which is proudly displayed along side the clothing. This is the bellezza (beauty) of having a small yet successful business, you can try different things and see what flies. If nothing else, you'll always keep your customers intrigued.



There are two designers, both with very different styles but together they create one harmonious collection. Everything is fatto in Italia (made in Italy) because design is very detailed oriented and hands on. They don't just design something and hand off to production, but instead they follow through from initial concept until it is on the floor. Just a few weeks ago a coat came in and was already nella vetrina (in the window) when design noticed that the sleeve was slightly bigger than spec. Every piece was returned to the factory and corrected. Like that might happen at Macy's!! Even when design collaborates with another design firm whether it be for fabric or styling, the item is changed so that it esclusivo (exclusive) to Empresa.

Another reason for Empresa's popularity and following is it's customer service. Recently un cappotto (coat) purchased five years ago was returned because the owner ripped the sleeve in an incidente (accident) on his motorino. Empresa took the jacket back, matched the leather and had the sleeve repaired. Non c'era un problema!! For now, you will have go to the Eternal City to find Empresa but l'anno prossimo (next year) you will also be able to find one should you make your way north to Venezia (Venice). And I have it on good authority that should the right partner be found, maybe we can expect to find one in New York CIty's Soho or Meatpacking District...magari!!! Here are just a few of my favorite things...

Mi piace molto questa sciarpa (I really like this scarf) which wraps, buttons close and has two pockets on the end as well as these this pullover neck muffler all modeled by Gabriele.

Maglie (sweaters) cover the full spectrum from textured turtle...to 1/2 button pullover...to cardigan with shawl collar.

Lightweight, almost transparent knits in vee- and turtleneck styles with leather elbow patch details...

An assortment of cappotti e giacce (coats and jackets)...in wool plaid...microfiber with plaid lining filled with cashmere. For those who must follow the latest trend, the jacket on the right is reversible..from very shiney (i.e.Moncler) to treated cotton on the other. It comes in chocolate, bright blue and charcoal.

Leather jackets with functional details like buttonholes on cuffs...

Pants come in an array of styles and fabrications from pinwale cord, to velvet, to check and plaid patterns. Empressa takes traditional fabrics and patterns like glenplaid and uses a fabric belt and adds a crinkle front to make a fresh new look from something traditional.

Overall tone of the store for this season is brown and green but here we have grey with a shot of bright yellow... in a windbreaker and accessories like a thermos and pencil sharpener in leather.

  
Blazers for casual evenings or a night at La Teatro Argentina...

 

Le scarpe (shoes) in assorted colors and styles with a vintage, used feel...

Yet I am drawn to these two...dressy with faux fur lining for cold, windy NY nights and these pindot, blk/wht vinyl with curyl acrylic lining...just for fun!!

Camicie (shirts) and accessories for finishing touches...

Safe but stylish in this chocolate casco (helmut) with leather detail....

 
 
 
 
 
And last but not least soft leather bags for every day use or a weekend in Capri, Genova or Palermo...
 

Adesso..ciao e buon lavoro...

EMPRESA  Via dei Giubbonari, 25/26 (Campo de' Fiori) - Tel. 06.68.32.428  www.empresa.it

Tee Time

Now that it's the middle of August and summer is finally in full swing of course we have winter clothing in the stores. I never could figure that out but who am I to debate the oracles of fashion. I'm still very much in tee shirt/polo mode and don't want it to end any time soon. While most of us like the seasons of the east coast, I'd prefer to hold off on the next for a bit longer. And I love my white jeans, whether it is "in" or "out" to wear white I won't be denied the one thing that signals summer for me. Yes, I know some people say color is seasonless but I'm from the old school. I will wear white after labor day but once the temperature drops below 70...they have to go away till next Spring...or a nice winter break in the Virgin Islands.

Thanks to my friend Stu, I was able to attend MRketNY a menswear show for spring/summer 2010. So while some of you are already in Fall mode, my thoughts are already on next spring which hopefully I'll spend lying on a beach in Sardinia. Here are some of my favorite tees made to be worn loud and proud. So save the Hanes for layering underneath something and step out in something a bit more adventurous...

Bright florals splashed allover...

Or strategically placed...I love the idea of mixing florals (from tropical to small bud-like) with checks or plaids. Lots of men won't wear florals unless they're on a Hawaiian island but mixing it up with other menswear patterns just might get them out of their Fruit of the Loom's.



If you can't get him into anything floral then at least try something graphic like these zig-zag or spiral patterns...



And while these last two are definitely not for the faint of heart, there is something about them that I like. The one on the right reminds me of something Versace would have done..you know "back in the day".


Okay so you're not a tee shirt guy, you like your polos. No problem but please be a bit more adventurous than an alligator or pony...Look for interesting details on collars, cuffs and pockets. Or even simple details like numbers or anchors can take a plain polo to the next level.



I always like pieced, solid/pattern sweater like knits.


And for those who just won't budge from tradition, you can't get any more traditional than below but at least they have some interesting collar and shoulder details...


A presto,
Oliver

All tees and purple/blk polo courtesy of:
Yashi Yamamuri/Ital Wear Inc.
contact: Tarcisio Paciocco
phone: 734-207-0441
email: italwear@msn.com

All other polos courtesy of
CODICE - Schuyler 4 Ltd.
Email: jack@schuyler4.com
phone: 212-752-0003
www.hauptshirts.com