Monday, April 6, 2009

Kesner

KESNER 524 Hudson Street, New York City
212-206-6330 www.kesner-ny.com



It was one of those rare warm days in the beginning of March that I stumbled upon KESNER. The kind that gives you a taste of Spring and then the next day it's 20 degrees again!! I did a very quick walk through and knew I had to return. It was like someone had read my mind and designed a whole Spring collection around ME!! I've always wanted to be a muse!!
Finally this week I nailed down the very busy Director of Operations, Thomas Trube and I was able to get a bit of information about KESNER.

KESNER opened in November 2008 and is a family business owned by Matthew Simon and Philip Silverman, half brothers. Previous experience: one worked for the Knicks, the other was briefly a buyer for Bloomingdale's. They couldn't seem to find one store that had the right mix of clothing they liked so they opened their own. As luck would have it, Thomas also shares their sense of style and with that these three Musketeers have found a formula that works. Thomas comes with a wealth of experience including Barney's, Puma Black, Adidas and Issey Miyake.

KESNER is small and very easy to shop with a well edited selection of items. Each season they carry about 25 designers, 10 of which are exclusive and each collection is grouped together. It is bi-level store with current merchandise upstairs and if there is any sale items left it will be on the lower level. Upon entering the downstairs den, you are transported into what feels like an exclusive menswear club with plush chairs, a sofa, floor lamps and a stocked bar.








As I've previously mentioned, the merchandise was chosen with me in mind. Unique, interesting and conservative with a twist. It's all in the details fellas!!! Clothing that fits, not tight, just a nice fit. Anyone spending 4 or more days a week in the gym is not walking around in a sack. This store is for the man who wants modern, "special" pieces that can be worn for a few seasons...investment clothing, not the "it" designer of the moment. Someone mature with a sense of style and taste. Their buying formula includes mixing established designers with a few new ones as well. This Spring 09 their lineup includes: Marchand Drapier, Burkman Brothers, Veronique Branquinho, Kris Van Assche, Tim Hamilton and Goussin to name a few.

Striped shirt with two breast pkts and epaulets...extra attention to cuffs...traditional oxford with a twist..



Waist and pocket details...and a tape measure, just in case!!



Tailored wovens that dress up or dress down in traditional patterns...contrasting collar/cuff pullover...linen with cotton pleated front...cotton with pleated bib front.



Look Ma, no buttons!! Check short sleeve with magnetic closures...eyelet shirt comes with attachable collar.



Spring jackets and trenches...



KESNER does casual with hooded cotton jacket...heathered pullover with striped tank lining...hand painted tees and assorted vees



From Burkman Brothers a line of clothing that ANY man can understand from Joe the Plumber to your favorite fashion bear. Plaids, stripes, dbl lined khaki shorts...Easy and understandable. What's not to get?



And last but far from least, my favorite category, knitwear...white perforated cotton vee worn with plaid pants... gauzy, transparent wool/cashmere knitwear.



KESNER also carries a line of leather and canvas bags and accessories all from Want Les Essentials De La Vie.
My favorite piece being the hardcover leather Ipod case which makes an excellent gift for any man.



What does the future hold for KESNER? Well, the possibility of another location as well as "the Kesner woman". For Fall 2009 they are relaunching two exclusive European menswear lines for the U.S. market. And even with that fully loaded bar, Thomas kept his lips sealed as to who they were. Humph...I wonder if I'm losing my charm?

I will definitely keep you updated on the KESNER because with all this doom and gloom it's great to know that someone is doing well. Mazoltov boys!
A presto,
Oliver

Monday, March 16, 2009

Pitti Uomo Knitwear Recap


Everyone knows I have a weakness for knitwear from lightweight to chunky. Lightweight, transparent and sexy for Spring/Summer....chunky and soft for Fall/Winter outerwear inspired pieces and of course cashmere for all weights in between. YES, I'm spoiled!! I was glad to see some new looks at Pitti Uomo as well as updated old ones.

Shawl collars and double breasted models look great as I like to wear them in place of a sport jacket. Vests always make great layering pieces especially when updated with innovative stitching and detailing. Very chunky almost outerwear styles continue as does long cardigans for the fashion forward.

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G.R.P. srl out of Poggio a Caiano near Florence had a nice varied collection consisting of 100% wool to... wool/merino and wool/cashmere blends. They also had a superfine wool from Australia. For the non-technical among us that just means that the fibers are longer and softer than the average wool fibers. Their collection consisted of retro inspired geometrics;




Country inspired... wool mixed with tweed or liberty print taping;



And waffle knits, sailor inspired in chunky 90% wool/10% cashmere with toggle closures.


G.R.P. srl
Tel. 39-055-879-7183
email: maglificiogrp@virgilio.it
website: www.maglificiogrp.com

Continuing with knitwear I went to V NECK. Now the last time I wrote about V NECK, it was a "a line of rock inspired tees and knitwear". WAS being the operative word. They have spun themselves into a really hot knitwear line. Every time I went by the booth, it was packed. Luckily on my last day Dott. Ugo Bonavolta gave me a quick tour before it was time to head back to Rome.
I really LOVE this line and could wear every piece..from double breasted in boiled wool...to chunky (but not sweat inducing) knits...to double knits (wool/viscose) which function as jackets...and finally to extra fine lightweight merino. There was even British inspired collection with plaid elbow pads and detailing on collars. My favorite was the cashmere/silk/wool dip-dyed collection. Dott. Bonavolta feels the trend for the upcoming Fall season will be heavy or light...no in between. We shall see!!! V NECK is presently only sold in small boutiques in Europe and Japan and have yet to set foot stateside. They are presently seeking a rep. Hopefully by the time Fall rolls around some smart retailer will have added them to their mix.

Vibrant blue and dip dyed...

Purple continues at V NECK and G.R.P.



Shawl collars...



Lined knitwear functions as outerwear....knitwear in place of a sport jacket...

V NECK - EFFEBI MAGLIERIE srl
phone: 39-0522-669361
email: vneck@vneck.it

This is the end of my Pitti Uomo Fall 2010 report. Though I can't wait to get my hands on some of these pieces for next Fall, I'm really looking forward to the end of this winter and the beginning of Spring. Hopefully it will lift our moods as well as the economy!! In the coming weeks, I will be featuring a few stores and looks for Spring 09 which you can buy now to lighten your mood.

A presto,
Oliver